Function: Awesome
Date: November 18th, 2009
1 a: The day that Derek goes surfing every week to reach his little version of Nirvana. b: Stoke
Now, you're probably thinking "But Derek! You train and work quite a bit! How do you manage to find the time and energy to do something like surfing? AND where can you even surf that much near here?"
Well, the second part of the question will go unanswered (Tee heeeeee), but let me just say, that I plan on making time to do this weekly (on Wednesdays) for the foreseeable future. I've found it to be the ultimate outlet for everything that is
a) Stressing me out
b) Hurting (I must have SUPER-endorphins or something)
c) Just needing to be alone
I've always looked at surfing as a recreational activity that transcends the art/sport boundary, but only recently found the spiritual side of it. It's actually quite the revelation. Recently there has been a lot on my mind, and I've found it hard to find the time to empty my thoughts and actually think about myself, and how I'm REALLY doing. I'm ridiculously happy, and that's all there is to it. And where did I have this "eureka" moment?
Straddling on my 6' fish, in-between sets, on one of the rainiest days of the year.
So the question I pose to everyone (or any of the 2 people that read this :)) is whether you have a proverbial "Surfday"? Not necessarily a day (I dont surf all day, usually around 4 hours early in the a.m.), but even just an hour? I definitely feel like it's something that's been missing from my life for ages. I get to empty everything out of my head, and just think about my connection with my board, with the ocean, with anything I decide.
It might not be a "Surf-day" for you, but finding that time is absolutely imperative.
Triathlon related post on the horizon :)
Derbear
